Boat Storage in Nanaimo, Vancouver – 17 Expert Tips

To help boats and yachts retain their value it’s important every owner knows the best practices in boat storage. Having a boat is a lot of work. We have compiled a list of expert-recommended tips for storing your boat.

BEST PRACTICES IN BOAT STORAGE

The right boat storage is a major factor in determining how long a boat will last. Below are 17 expert tips and best practices you should try when storing your boat: 

1. Clean your boat : Keeping your boat clean is one of the most basic rules of storage. Even when you are only storing it for a little while, it is imperative that you clean your boat to avoid the build-up of grime. Doing so will also help you avoid staining and moulds from growing.
2. Wax your boat : After cleaning the entirety of your boat, it is a good idea to add protection by covering its body with wax. This will help you avoid rust, especially if the boat will be stored outside.
3. Leave the keys with someone locally : To ensure the safety of your boat, make sure to lock it into the facility and leave the keys with someone you trust.
4. Protect your boat from vermin : Small animals like mice can cause a huge amount of damage to your boat, so it is best to keep them away. To do this, make sure that your boat’s storage facility cannot be easily accessed by these climbers. Never leave ladders, ramps, and other possible passages for these critters to climb onto. You may also want to put a repellent down.
5. Clean out the cabin : Even if it’s just for a short time, clean up the cabin, turn off the fridge and store everything away how you know it should be done.
6. Clean up on deck : Check the sails, mast, line, and fenders before putting your boat into storage. The sails should be dry and properly rolled before being stored inside the boat. The mast should be removed and secured inside the vessel or in a separate storage area. Fenders, lines, and other equipment should be cleaned and dried first before being stowed into storage where there isn’t any sunlight. Never forget to secure any other boating equipment that is to be left on deck.
7. Secure the engine : When securing the engine, empty the fuel tank by running the engine after closing the fuel outlet to prevent the substance from harming its injectors or carburettors. It is also recommended to fog the engine to avoid moisture build-up. The boat’s propellers and motors should also be secured. Remember to remove the propellers and outdrives.
8. Change the engine oil : To prevent engine corrosion, make sure to change the oil and oil filter. To do this, flush out remnants of the old substance with water. Then drain it entirely before adding new oil.
9. Flush the coolant system : The cooling system should be flushed with water. Make sure to replace the antifreeze solution with one that is diluted based on the chemical’s specification to prevent the boat’s engine from freezing and corroding during winter.
10. Use fogging oil : Spraying fogging oil onto the spark plug holes or carburettor can help protect the engine’s moving parts from freezing from extremely cold temperatures during winter. To do this, turn over the engine without starting it and spray the oil while it is still rotating. You may also refer to your manual for the proper use of fogging oil based on the boat engine specifications.
11. Take off the drive belts : Drive belts tend to crack from being kept under tension for extended periods, so make sure to loosen or remove them before you store your boat. This is best done for winter storage.
12. Check over the steering : Grease your steering so that when you want to use your boat the steering will work smoothly.
13. Disconnect the battery : This will prolong the life of your battery. If your storing your boat for long periods of time it is worth recharging it occasionally.
14. Check over your gas : Your tanks should either be completely full or empty. Stabilizers will ensure that you can use the fuel again once you decide to start bring your vessel out.
15. Plug up exhaust holes : Use duct tape to protect the boat from small animals.
16. Take home as much of the interior as possible! : We’re talking electronics and any soft furnishings. The less on the boat the fewer things get damaged from the cold.
17. Cover the boat : Boat covers should be used to prevent the accumulation of dirt, grime, dust, and moisture.

How to prepare your boat for haulout at Nanaimo Boatyard

Even if you’re lucky enough to keep your boat somewhere you can sail all year round, you will still want to have your boat hauled out for annual checks and maintenance. For most of us having the boat hauled out for a few months a year is just part of normal boating.

If you’re planning to have some work done on your boat then you may need to store the boat in a different part of the boatyard and there may be a higher storage charge. If this is the case then try and assess what work you need to be done before you take the boat out of the water so you can brief contractors and get work immediately planned in to minimize your storage costs. Work out what work you are going to do and what work you are going to outsource. You can even get parts and supplies pre-ordered.

Yacht Care & Management

We offer all our customers a range of boat care programs to suit their needs including guardianage, boat care  and winter dry boat storage, as well as yacht management.

BOAT CARE AND GUARDIANAGE

Our boat guardianage service ensures a boat owner is able to return to his boat to find it just as he left it or often in better order. We are able to look after almost any type of craft. During the off season we offer ashore storage and provide the necessary boat care and maintenance.

• Safety and security of your boat
• Peace of mind, knowing someone is caring for your boa
• Local knowledge
• Support of the most experienced boat service team in Nanaimo.

Our guardianage services:

• Inspection of mooring and stern lines
• Checking of shore power and battery charging
• Regular checks for leaks and airing (especially after bad weather)
• Periodically checking the bilges and engine, and carrying out snow removal if necessary
• Checking/securing of all covers and tarps
• Regular running of engines and other machinery
• Stowing and securing all deck equipment, sails
• Cleaning of decks and interiors
• Charging of batteries
• Cleaning/washing of deck prior the arrival of owner/guests

YACHT MANAGEMENT

Our yacht management programme, through our sister company Nanaimo Yacht Charters & Sailing School, can dramatically reduce the cost of owning or buying a new yacht. You can take advantage of our charter management program which offers 80% of the charter revenue on all new, current year, boats joining our yacht partnership program. This allows us to maximize your enjoyment of owning a boat, whilst reducing the costs of yacht ownership.

For more information click through to Nanaimo Yacht Charters Yacht Management information on their website

We are a service orientated business with a long history of customer satisfaction, located in BC on Vancouver Island, one of the fastest growing cruising areas of Canada – a sure combination for success.

Contact us now to discover more and obtain more information.

                                                    Contact Us

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Nanaimo Chandlery

Our on-site chandlery sells a vast number of items to fulfill your needs whilst in the boatyard. We can also obtain marine supplies and boat parts  for you at competitive prices and if it’s not available locally we’ll source and obtain a part from elsewhere.

We are open 7 days a week in the season and Monday to Saturday from November to early March – call to order ahead for all your boating needs!

Marine Paint and painting supplies (all paint available in red, black & blue) See our Special Offers page for competitive pricing.

Special Offers

• Interlux and Pettit ablative, self polishing antifoul paints
  
• Interlux Bottomkote XXX antifoul – a cheaper sloughing paint
• Interlux Trilux II – antifoul for aluminum hulls
• Seaguard Zinc Spray  and PropGlide for preventing marine growth on propellers and running gear
• Underwater and topside primers and paints
• Wet & dry sandpaper and 3M scrubbing pads
• Masking tape, paint brushes, paint rollers & frames, trays – large & small
• Paper coveralls, dust masks, disposable gloves
• Mixing cups and sticks

Marine Polish and boat polishing supplies

• 3M Perfect-It Polishing Compounds with Wax
• Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine Wax
• 7.5” Wool Buffing pads, hook & loop

Cleaners and Boat Cleaning supplies

• 3M Sharpshooter mark remover
• Wash Safe Rust-Off stain remover
• Z Care LVP Marine Cleaner
• Hyseas Boat Soap and Bilge Cleaner
• Shurhold wash brushes

Sealants

• Sikaflex 291 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive/Sealant
• 3M 4000, 4200 and 5200 Adhesive Sealants
• Boatlife Life Seal

Zincs

• Streamlined shaft zinc and aluminum anodes ¾” to 3 ½”, plus 25 – 45mm sizes
• Donut/collar shaft zinc and aluminum anodes ¾ to 4” plus 25 – 35mm sizes
• Rudder and Trim Tab zinc and aluminum anodes 1⅞” to 5⅛”
• Prop nut zinc anodes ¾” to 1⅜” and 25 – 45mm sizes
• Max Prop, Beneteau, Flex-o-fold, J-Prop, Vari Prop, Autostream, Autoprop prop nut anodes in various sizes
• SidePower, Lewmar, Wesmar, Sideshift, Max Power, Vetus, Key Power and other thruster anodes
• Engine Cooling System zinc anodes ¼” to ¾” – including those for Yanmar and Volvo engines
• Divers Dream, Mini Diver, teardrop and many other hull anodes in zinc & aluminum
• Mercury/Mercruiser Alpha, Bravo anode kits
• Weld/Bolt on hull anodes in zinc & aluminum
• Saildrive anodes for Yanmar and Volvo
• 
  Spurs line cutter and Nordhavn shaft and hull anodes

Fasteners

• We carry a large selection of stainless steel nuts, bolts, washers, machine screws, teak screws, hose clamps and cotter pins.

Marine Electrical Supplies

• We have tinned boat cable, insulated and non-insulated connectors and terminals, battery cable lugs, fuses and electrical tape.

We can obtain most boating supplies and parts within 24 hours – all you have to do is ask…………

View Our Catalogue

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Can you repair your own inflatable?

The simple answer is yes. The longer answer is of course, it all depends…

For a simple repair to a PVC or Hypalon RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat), inflatable boat and SIB (Soft Inflatable Boat) tubes there are a range of kits you can buy.

Here are some useful guidelines:

Plan Your Repair

You’ll be using some products with strong chemicals so keep pets and children away and read the product labels carefully. Solvents and adhesives are known to produce fumes which must not be inhaled or exposed to skin, eyes or ingested plus the fumes are known to be highly flammable. If you are happy with the safety elements then you can start planning where you are going to do the work. There is a standard list of the best conditions:

• Lower than 60% humidity.
• Between 18ºC -25ºC.
• Dry. well-ventilated area that is away from glaring sunshine.
• Nowhere near to any naked flames.

Find Your Boat Manual

Before entering any chandlers you need to know what fabric your inflatable tube is made from because this will decide the type of adhesive, solvent and patch fabric you need. The most common fabrics used are Hypalon, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and PU (polyurethane).

To identify the fabric:

• Have a look at your boat manual or have a look on the web and you will probably easily find the answer.
• Look at the back of the tube fabric (through the inflation valve or where the tear is). Hypalon is a dull, dark grey or black whereas PVC and PU is the same colour on both sides. Although be careful with this technique if your boat has had UV damage.
• Use a piece of sandpaper to rub the fabric in an inconspicuous area. If it is hypalon the fabric will go dull and produce some dust whereas PVC or PU will scratch but stay glossy.

If none of the above confirms the fabric then apply a small amount of MEK (also known as Butanone). If the fabric is PVC then the material will feel tacky, if it’s Hypalon it will just go dull, but it won’t feel tacky.

Collect Your Boat Repair Kit Together

The boating industry informally seems to divide tube repairs into small tears which can be repaired with a single patch to the outside of the tube and larger tears (over 5 cm) which will need to be patched from both from the inside and outside of the tube.

• Reommended glue from your yacht chandlers.
• The correct fabric patch.
• Polythene for the inner patch (if required).
• Solvent/primer.
• Sandpaper.
• Mixing stick. e.g. lollipop stick.
• Lint-free cloth.
• Small, stiff paint or glue brush.
• Pencil.
• Masking tape.
• Something to remove air bubbles (e.g. handle of a hammer).
• A heavy weight to hold the patch down whilst it is drying.

You’re Ready to Go….

1. Find where the leak is on the tube. If it’s not obvious then put soapy water on the inflated tube and find the leak by seeing where the bubbles are. Then simply mark the location, dry the area and deflate the tube
2. Cut out a fabric patch and round the corners. You will need a minimum of 5 cm in excess of the tear.
3. Place the patch over the hole and mark around the patch on the tube with a pencil. If the tear is greater than 5cm then also cut out a matching piece of polythene.
4. For Hypalon patches rub the back of the patch and the marked repair area with abrasive paper so there is a key for the adhesive. Make sure it is just a light rubbing over. Do NOT rub down PVC fabric.
5. Clean the back of the patch and the repair area with a lint-free cloth and MEK solvent or acetone. The solvent must evaporate before continuing.
6. Put masking tape around the repair area so any adhesive can be lifted from around the repair site. Allow a small margin for stretch for when the patch is applied.
7. Prepare the adhesive as per the adhesive instructions. For tears over 5 cm then apply adhesive to the back of one of the patches and to the inner tube surface around the repair area. Leave it to dry for around 20 minutes and then apply a second coat and leave it to dry for just a few minutes. Put the polythene on the adhesive so that the patch can be rolled up with the glue sticking to itself.
8. Put the rolled-up patch into the tube through the tear in the tube and unroll. Position over the tear and peel away the polythene to allow the glued areas to bond. Smooth the patch working from the centre of the patch outwards to smooth out any air bubbles.
9. Using the brush applicator apply a thin coat of adhesive to the tube patch and the masked repair area. Leave to dry for at least 20 minutes and then apply a second coat leaving it to dry for a few minutes until tacky. Apply the patch carefully to the repair area.
10. Firmly smooth down the patch to ensure no air bubbles.
11. Carefully remove the masking tape and clean-off any excess adhesive with the MEK solvent. If you don’t remove it the glue will show as a nasty brown.
12. Place a smooth sided heavy weight on the patch and leave for 24 hours before re-inflating the tubes. Always check the repair before re-launching the boat!

If you’re concerned about repairing your inflatable then come and talk to us. We’re happy to give advice or you can leave your inflatable with us and we can do the repair for you.

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Top Tips for How to Clean a Boat

Part of owning a boat is maintaining it and something that costs very little, but can make a real difference to how much you enjoy using the boat and the resale value, is keeping the boat clean. If you have a willing crew, cleaning your boat can be a fun way of getting everyone involved. Cleaning the boat on your own may not feel quite the same!

Here are our top tips for keeping your boat ship shape!

1. Start with the outside  – we say start with the outside just because all too often we clean the interior whilst we are using the boat and somehow the exterior cleaning doesn’t happen. Perhaps it’s because it feels like a bigger job? Invest, borrow or hire a pressure washer and get cleaning. Start with going over the whole of the exterior with a quick sweep and then use a boat brush with a suitable wash mixture for boats.  Come and talk to us at our chandlery for supplies.
2. Use the right chemicals – use the right chemicals and cleaning gets a lot easier. You will soon know if you are using the wrong wash mixture because there will be unsightly residues left behind and the boat will be difficult to clean.
3. Don’t forget to wax – washing your boat takes the wax off, so you need to put the wax back on otherwise you’ll find your paint will discolour and crack. This can be a long task and so many people us a boat cleaning service for this. If you have a fiberglass gel coat then there is a different process for cleaning.
4. Non-slip Fiberglass – you can’t wax non-slip fiberglass because then it will make it slippery!  Start cleaning with soap, water and a stiff bristle brush. The toughest stains can be treated with specialist cleaners, but use sparingly because any bleach in these products can do damage to the fibreglass surface. Once clean you can then apply a treatment like Star Brite Non-Skid Deck Wax which actually isn’t a wax but a product with polymers that help shine and protect without being slippery.
5. Canvas – regular gentle cleaning with a mild soap will keep your canvas looking good. Typically every couple of years canvas needs to be scrubbed with a soap and baking soda mix or if the canvas is small enough it can be put in a washing machine on a warm was with soap and baking soda. There are different types of clear canvas and it’s worth reading up on the manufacturer instructions. Normally a wash with a gentle soap and a non-abrasive sponge or cloth followed by careful drying will keep clear canvas looking good.
6. Teak – a quick scrub with soapy water gets the worst of the salt water off, but in the long term all teak will blacken. To clean the teak you will need to use an acid-based teak cleaner. There are different strength cleaners and it’s important to carefully follow the instructions. When cleaning, always remove the teak from the boat so that the cleaning chemicals do not go onto any other part of the boat.
7. Wood areas inside – wood looks beautiful on a boat but it comes at a cleaning and maintenance price. Talk to our chandlery about hardwood cleaners, polish and spray wax for the interior. The standard process is mopping, drying and polishing. If it’s a big area then you may want to rent a buffer to complete the job.
8. Soft furnishings – regular, gentle cleaning will keep you on top of the cleaning. Ideally, rent a steam cleaner and then once clean apply a sealant over the carpet or upholstery which should help protect from mold and the acrid smell of the sea. To clean the foam in cushions sprinkle both sides of the cushion with baking soda and leave for a few hours. Then shake off the soda and mist with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. Then just leave the cushions in a well-ventilated area for a few days for the vinegar smell to dispense. Finally soak the foam in water, squeeze out and repeat until all the dirt has come out.
9. Vinyl furnishing – not as luxurious as soft furnishings but popular because it is so easy to clean and maintain, as long as you don’t let the vinyl become covered in mold. You can use a domestic cleaner that you would use at home and then apply a vinyl protectant. From an environmental perspective try and avoid using bleach.
10. Heads – heads can be cleaned like you would at home. The only difference is cleaning the lines where calcium deposits can collect. To avoid this simply flush through a few cups of white vinegar.

If cleaning your boat is something you dread rather than enjoy then let us clean your boat for you!

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Outboard Engine Care

The weather is just right, it’s the start of the season, everyone is keen to get out on the water and then once you’ve loaded up your tender you find out the outboard won’t start. Time to get out the oars and rowlocks or do you give up and go home?  Outboard Engine Care is just another area where a bit of planning makes all the difference.

Outboard Engine Care are fairly simple and even if you’re not a mechanic some day to day maintenance can go a long way to keeping your outboard engine in a reliable condition. 

At the end of each trip or vacation:

1. Flush (clean) out the engine:
   • Outboard Engines with a flushing port:
     • Remove the cap from the flushing port and attach your garden hose (if the boat is in the water tilt the engine up so the saltwater drains out.
     • Turn on the water and let it run for at least 5 minutes. Do not start the engine.
     • Remove the hose and put the cap on.
   • Outboard Engines without a flushing port:
     • Attach a pair of earmuffs to the hose and slide over the water outflow.
     • Turn on the water, start the engine and let the engine run for 5 minutes. Make sure water is coming out of the outflow tube.
     • Turn the engine off, turn off the water and remove the earmuffs from the hose.
2. Whilst flushing the engine have a look at the water pump. You want to see it has a strong flow of water. If there is a weak flow of water then check to see if there is anything stuck in the outflow tube.  Turn the engine off and then use a loop of wire to go round the outflow tube to clear anything. If you start the engine again and find the water flow is still weak then you may need a new water pump. Whilst the engine is running also check the heat of the water; the water should be warm but not hot. If the water is hot then the engine needs to be looked at by an experienced mechanic.
3. Burn off all the dirty fuel in the carburettor. Disconnect the fuel line and then allow the engine to run for a few minutes.
4. Check for leaks. Once you have flushed the engine and run the engine out of fuel disconnect the battery, take the engine cowling off and check for fuel or water leaks. If there are any leaks it probably time to call in a mechanic.
5. Protect the engine. Whilst you have the cowling off wipe the engine with water and then spray with an anti-corrosive (e.g. WD40).
6. Cover up. Once work is completed put the cowling back on and keep a canvas or plastic cover on the engine.

Other areas to maintain:

It’s always a good to look over your outboard for anything that looks unusual and may require attention.  Typical areas where outboards need maintenance are:

1. The fuel line. Any cracks or worn areas?
2. The fuel primer bulb. Any cracks, soft and pliable to use?
3. Fuel tanks. Any damage or corrosion?
4. Tank vent. Vent is clear and not damaged?

At Nanaimo Boatyard we provide routine servicing, repairs and installations. We work with all types of recreational engines using original manufacturer parts.  Contact us via our website, or pop in and see us.

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